Tungsten, for it's size, is much heavier than the more common brass type alloys used in gold bead patterns. This makes this pattern very useful, particularly when fishing fast flowing river for grayling. The nymph sinks virtually straight to the bottom where it lands.
Hooks: short shank size 10 to 16. I have tied some on long shanks that have worked well on still waters. One of these long shank patterns was used for illustration for ease of scanning.
Working silk: scarlet
Body: red seals fur substitute
Body rib: brass coloured wire
Tail: red hackle fibres
Head: tungsten bead.
1. Slide bead over the hook barb leaving it resting against the eye of the hook.
2. Wind on the working silk starting from just behind the bead and work towards the start of the bend in the hook.
3. Tie in the red cock hackle fibres to form a tail.
4. Tie in the brass wire.
5. Dub on the red seals fur substitute onto the working silk and wind on, increasing the amount of seals fur until nearly reaching the bead. This should produce a nicely tapering body.
6. Wind the brass wire in the opposite direction to secure the body. Trim off the surplus wire behind the bead and tie off.
Although this nymph works well on both still waters and rivers, it is when fishing fast flowing streams that it excels. When grayling and trout appear to be hugging the bottom, the tungsten head on the nymph drags it right down to where the fish are feeding on the bottom. I use this pattern and the tungsten bead hairs ear for most of my fly fishing for grayling. These patterns are both fished up stream. I am virtually upstream trotting with these patterns mending the line in much the same way as I would in trotting a float for coarse fish. If the nymph gets stuck on the bottom, all you need do is lift the rod and mend the line. The line will soon straighten out with a take or you will feel the pull. The technique works very well for both trout and grayling. It is really worthwhile trying out tungsten bead patterns in rivers and still waters.