The next step, I believe is easier than in coarse fishing, as there is a more established coaching system in game fishing that is at present more widespread. Most trout fisheries can arrange lessons with a qualified instructor. The game fishing instructor will normally provide you with the tackle and then teach you those all important casting skills. He will also advise you about the tackle that you will need for your type of fly fishing.

Even as a fly fisherman with over thirty years experience, I sometimes go along to a professional fly fishing instructor to brush up on various techniques as I have picked up some bad habits. Rather than teach her myself, I sent my wife, Virginia for lessons and was not disappointed in the result. Certainly in our experience it was money well spent.

The main hurdle to climb is casting out a fly that has virtually no weight, certainly not enough to allow conventional casting. The heavy specially tapered fly line provides the necessary weight to get the fly out in to the water. However this needs to be balanced to the rod. Lines and rods are given an A.F.T.M. rating so that rod and line can be matched. The higher the A.F.T.M. number, the heavier the line and the more powerful the rod needed. A number 7 line is about average whilst a number 4 is regarded as very light. For trout fishing it is rare to see a line rated above 10 used and these are only used for extreme range fishing on large stillwaters or reservoirs.

By altering the density of the material used to make the specially tapered fly line, it can be made to either float or sink. Floating lines are the more popular but most anglers use both types. The sinking line being more useful in colder weather when the trout are often feeding on the bottom.

Your basic fly fishing gear should consist of a rod, reel, tapered fly line to match the rod, nylon for leader material, flies, priest, landing net and pole.